Doha

by: Allyson Portee

I recently found myself in Doha, Qatar for four days not knowing what to really expect culture wise. I’ve spent a lot of time in the UAE and thought it might be something like a Dubai, but I soon found that notion to be false. Each GCC state has a character and personality of its own and Doha is no different. A mix between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, I say, Doha is calm, modern, relaxed with the feel of not much going on; and quintessentially Arabian with its own personality in the Gulf. And while Doha isn’t as happening as a London, Dubai or NYC, it grows on you. As you lift the shell of Doha, you will uncover a pearl of rich cultural history underneath ready to be explored.

I found it fascinating how ancient Bedouin history goes back centuries in Qatar, but it’s constantly innovating and evolving like all of its Gulf neighbours, and the 2017 blockade placed on Qatar by most of the countries surrounding it has brought difficulties but the Qataris have seemed to push on and push through. And, the country is looking forward to being the 2022 host for the World Cup football games that will take place in just under three years’ time. By the end of my trip I had taken to Doha with its hidden gems, labyrinth souk alleyways, hotels and restaurants.

As I arrived to my hotel, the Al Messila Resort and Spa, a luxury hotel set in an indigenous botanical oasis, I was welcomed with a warm Qatari welcome by hotel staff. Just 30 minutes from Hamad International Airport and 15 minutes from downtown Doha, the hotel is newly opened and truly an oasis in Doha. Staying in one of the hotel’s villas, I was able to unwind from my flight, go to the spa, explore the hotel’s grounds, have a meal, rest and be prepared for the next day, which would include an all-day tour of the city.

My tour of Doha started with a pearl diving lecture, a trade that goes back centuries for the Qatari people. In fact, pearls were Qatar’s main industry until the 1940s, and then oil became the main industry money maker. I took part in a pearl diving informational discussion organised by the JW Marriot hotel. An 80-year-old Qatari pearl diving expert went into detail about craft of the trade.

After breakfast on the helipad of the JW Marriott, I joined a tour guide group around that went around the city. Our tour guide Marilu, an Italian that has been living in Doha for years gave a thorough tour of the city and its history. We started off at the Falcon Souk, which is the go to place for buying, trading and learning about this regional bird. Like a sport, falconry is a popular activity in the Gulf region. Wearing their hooded bonnets and perched on posts, falcons can be purchased at the souk.

Walking through the Katara Cultural Village, I was exposed to Qatari architecture and mosques. As men and women entered and exited the Gold Mosque, it’s a reminder of how faith is an integral part of the lives the people in the region. A large walkway along the Arabian Gulf coast and restaurants graze the seaside development of the village. Thankfully, November offers a reprieve from the extreme sweltering heat that’s typical of Qatar during the summer months. I’m not a museum person and don’t often go to them, but the Museum of Islamic Art and the National Museum of Qatar were on the list and actually took my breath away.

The Pearl district in Doha is a mixture of shopping and restaurants at its highest. Think Dubai’s The Palm, and this gives you a bigger picture of The Pearl. I really enjoyed the Venice area, seeing the exact replica of the Rialto Bridge that’s in Venice, Italy was awe inspiring. This area is newly built with Venetian-European architecture apartment buildings.

The Museum of Islamic Art has the largest Islamic art collection in the world, and I was told it cannot be missed. Right off the Corniche, the postmodern complex was designed by Im Pei, the architect of the Louvre Pyramid in Paris. The ground floors showcase temporary exhibitions, while the first and second floors house permanent collections. But, I’d have to say that the National Museum of Qatar was my favourite. Situated near the Museum of Islamic Art, the uniquely shaped building, shaped like a desert rose opened during the spring of this year. The museum houses 1.5 kilometers of galleries that are laid out in three chapters-Beginnings, Life in Qatar and Building the Nation. As I walked from gallery to gallery, I began to get a sense of life in Qatar, and being a lover of fashion, seeing the traditional Bedouin dress on display captivated my attention. The museum has a solid display of the life of Bedouin’s in the desert of Qatar, which I also found to be fascinating.

But with all the walking, lunch was needed and I found myself in the Parisa Souk Waqif restaurant. It serves quintessential Persian food with its Persian inspired ambience. The walls are filled with Persian artwork, mosaic tiles, magnificent chandeliers all handpicked from Iran. Often, the Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani dines at Parisa. A sensory overload, the restaurant is not just a place that satisfies the gastronomic rumblings of hunger, but it overwhelms the eye with its interior layout. The great thing about the location of the restaurant is that it’s in the Souk Waqif, so I was able to eat then whop in the souk.

The Souk Waqif is the best place to find traditional souvenir buys, with typical 19th century souk architectural features of mud walls and exposed timber beamed buildings. Full of sensory overload, the souk sits on an ancient market site where the Bedouin would bring their animals for trading and selling. From the best cloth for sewing, to souvenirs, to traditional clothing, and cafes/ restaurants, it’s the place to go to for Arab ambience and culture.

I wanted to try another hotel in Doha that didn’t quite have the resort feel, and fell in love with the Ritz-Carlton Doha in the West Bay Lagoon district, a five-star hotel not quite downtown but close enough to the goings on of the city. It offers the best skyline views of the Arabian Gulf coastline, Doha’s The Pearl, and boasts 5 onsite restaurants, my top choice being the STK steakhouse. The rooms are newly designed and the spa and onsite restaurant satisfied my one-night staycation needs. During the evening of my visit, I was able to enjoy the Asprey trunk show hosted in the penthouse Ritz-Carlton Doha Club on the top floor of the hotel. The famed London brand that creates leather bags, jewellry, and body products created a bespoke trolley for the hotel that highlights the best style of both brands.

While Doha may not be on your list of places to visit, it should be. From the hotels that pamper you, to the ancient cultural history that educates you, the shopping, the museums and the food, I found the city to be a pearl in the Arabian Gulf, one that I’m looking forward to uncovering again.